Comic Book Grading Scale Explained (0.5 to 10.0)

Condition is the single most important factor in determining a comic book’s value. You could have two copies of Hulk #181, but if one is a 9.8 and the other is a 2.0, you’re looking at a $50,000 difference.

But what do these numbers actually mean? And how can you tell the difference before you spend money on grading?

The 10-Point Scale

The industry uses a universal 10-point scale. While it looks precise, it’s actually grouped into “condition tiers.”

The “High Grades” (9.0 – 10.0)

10.0 Gem Mint (GM): A perfect book. No flaws whatsoever. These are incredibly rare, even for brand-new comics.
9.8 Near Mint/Mint (NM/M): This is the “gold standard” for modern keys. It looks perfect to the naked eye, though a professional might find one tiny, microscopic flaw.
9.4 Near Mint (NM): A beautiful book with maybe one or two tiny “stress lines” on the spine that don’t break the color.
9.0 Very Fine/Near Mint (VF/NM): Very minor wear. Maybe a slightly blunted corner or a tiny bit of surface wear.

The “Mid Grades” (5.0 – 8.5)

8.0 Very Fine (VF): A book that was read once or twice and handled with care. Some spine stress, minor corner wear.
6.0 Fine (FN): This is your average, well-kept comic. It has multiple spine stresses, maybe a small crease, but the cover still has its “pop.”
5.0 Very Good/Fine (VG/FN): Significant wear. The staples might be slightly loose, and there are clear creases and signs of aging.

The “Low Grades” (0.5 – 4.5)

4.0 Very Good (VG): The book is complete but “beat up.” Rounded corners, lusterless cover, and maybe a small piece missing from the edge.
2.0 Good (GD): A heavily read book. Creases, scuffing, and minor tears are expected. It’s all there, but it isn’t pretty.
0.5 Poor (PR): A “filler” copy. It might be missing pages, have a detached cover, or be covered in stains. Only valuable if it’s an extremely rare Golden Age key.

Understanding the “Price Cliff”

The most important thing for a collector to understand is the Price Cliff.

In the modern market, the jump from a 9.6 to a 9.8 is often 2x or 3x the price. Why? Because collectors want the best possible version of a book. If you are grading a modern comic, you are often aiming for a 9.8. Anything less is just a “cool slab.”

How to Self-Grade (The 10-Second Check)

Before you use the scanner, do this:

Check the Spine: Hold the book at an angle to the light. Do you see white ticks? If you see more than three, the book is likely 9.2 or lower.
Check the Staples: Are they rusty? Is the paper tearing around them?
Check the Corners: Are they sharp like a needle?
Look for “Color Breaks”: If a crease has white showing through it, it’s a “color break.” These are the biggest grade killers.

Conclusion

Grading is a skill that takes years to master. Don’t be discouraged if your “pristine” book comes back lower than you expected—it happens to everyone.

The key is to use data. Our ComicValue scanner helps you identify what a book should be worth at each grade level, allowing you to make an informed decision on whether to sell it raw or invest in a professional grade.

Want to see how your comic’s grade affects its value? Download ComicValue for iOS or Android and check recent sales across the entire 0.5 to 10.0 scale.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the most common grade for a new comic?

Most new comics off the shelf are either a 9.4, 9.6, or 9.8. It is very rare for a book to be a perfect 10.0.

Does a 'Fine' grade mean the comic is in good shape?

In the grading world, 'Fine' (6.0) is actually a mid-grade. It means the book has been read and shows some wear, but is still attractive.

Can a comic with a name written on the cover be high grade?

Generally, no. Writing is considered a significant flaw and will usually drop the grade to 4.0 (Very Good) or lower, depending on the severity.